Let’s Talk About Retinol

There is so much chatter online about this, but let’s address here: what is the difference between retinol and retinal? Most people know the basics: they are both vitamin A, they both belong in a nighttime routine, but is that all there is to it? Let’s dive in to the real differences.

Vitamin A is one of the most studied ingredients in skincare for good reason. It speeds up cell turnover, which means your skin sheds old, dull cells faster and replaces them with fresh ones. Over time that translates to softer texture, fewer fine lines, faded dark spots, smaller-looking pores, and firmer skin. It also helps regulate oil production, which is why it shows up in routines for acne-prone skin too.

If vitamin C is your morning defense, think of vitamin A as your nighttime repair crew.

The problem is not whether to use vitamin A. The problem is knowing which form to use.

Retinol is the most well-known over-the-counter vitamin A. When you apply it, your skin has to convert it twice before it becomes retinoic acid, which is the active form your skin actually uses. That two-step conversion process means it works more slowly and gently, which is why it is well tolerated by most people but takes longer to see results. It is the standard in most skincare lines and has decades of research behind it.

Retinal (retinaldehyde) is one step closer to retinoic acid, so it only needs one conversion instead of two. That makes it significantly more potent than retinol while still being available without a prescription. It works faster, delivers more noticeable results in a shorter time frame, and tends to be less irritating than prescription-strength retinoic acid. Most people who have hit a plateau with retinol find that switching to retinal gets them moving again.

Prescription retinoic acid (tretinoin) is the fully active form that needs no conversion at all, which is why it is the most powerful but also the most likely to cause irritation, peeling, and sensitivity. It works fast, but your skin needs time to adjust and a licensed provider to guide you through it.

I like to think of it like driving to a destination with a different numbers of turns:

• Retinol takes the scenic route with two stops along the way
• Retinal cuts out one stop
• Tretinoin drives straight there

It is more pleasant to use retinol, but it takes more time. Tretinoin has fewer turns which means you arrive faster, but you also need to be ready for the speed.

If you have never used vitamin A before, start low and go slow. Your skin needs time to adapt. A gentle retinol is the right place to begin. I recommend starting with the Dr. Scheel Age Defying Retinol Serum 2.5x because it delivers real results without overwhelming your skin, and once your skin has adjusted you can work your way up to the 5x formulation, and then to 10x with time. 

Use your vitamin A at night on clean, dry skin. Apply it after cleansing and before moisturizer. Start two or three nights a week and build up gradually. 

Some dryness, flaking, or tingling in the first few weeks is normal as your skin adjusts. That is not a reason to stop; it is a sign the ingredient is working. Moisturizer is your best friend during this phase. I really like to pair it with the Dr. Scheel Hydra-Riche Moisturizer at night. 

The one non-negotiable is sunscreen every single morning. Vitamin A increases your skin’s sensitivity to the sun, so skipping SPF while using it undoes a lot of the work you are putting in at night.

If you are already using other strong actives like an exfoliating acid, do not layer everything at once. Alternate nights if needed and let your skin settle in.

Retinol, retinal, and tretinoin just work at different speeds. Most people start with retinol and gradually work their way up to the higher-strength retinols. If you are not sure where to start or whether it is time to step up, that is exactly what we are here for.

Have questions about what is right for your skin? Email me anytime at mmahoney@drmonicascheel.com or call my direct line at (808) 666-2078.

Mahalo for reading — here is to happy, healthy, glowing skin.